Saturday, January 26, 2013

CHR. WARD C11 Titanium ELITE

By TLex See the new CHR.WARD C11 Titanium ELITE 500m DIVER in this short HD video sequence!



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Thursday, January 24, 2013

VintageVDB CHRONO 1stLook

By TLex Introducing the new Vintage VDB Chronograph, the latest project from VDB. The new model uniquely combines two specialist materials, bronze and carbon fiber.



Bronze has been used for the massive 55mm x 57mm x 20mm watch case. Carbon has been use for the sporty dial and the bezel insert.



The huge watch case has water-resistant to 200 meters. It features: a screwdown crown and caseback, a highly domed Sapphire crystal and a 12-sided uni-directional rotational bezel with a single luminous pip at 12 o'clock.



The bezel insert and the sporty dial with its 3 sub-dials has been made from carbon fiber. The watch has is powered by a Swiss made ETA Valjoux 7750 automatic chronograph caliber.



The VDB Chrono comes on a custom Vintage VDB rubber divers strap attached by screwed lug bars. It is presented in leather box along with an additional handmade leather strap.



Just 30 pieces are available from Vintage VDB priced 2,890euro. Follow the link HERE for further details on pre-ordering. Follow the link HERE to discover the new Vintage VDB 2013 . . .

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EXT�tico Juntor Black COMPOSITE

By TLex Here's the EXT�tico JUNTOR in a proposed black composite case.Very stealthy! What are people's opinions on all the new carbon and ceramic cases that we have been seeing of late?









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Jaeger-LeCoultre Deep Sea Vintage Chronograph CERMET vintageLUME

By TLex Here's another look at the new Deep Sea Vintage Chronograph CERMET, only with old school vintage orange lume.



Apologies for the pint-sized images, bigger ones coming soon!



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Tuesday, January 22, 2013

ROLEX Deep Sea SPECIAL 'Deeply Engineered'

By TLex During the early 1950s, Rolex carried out a series of extreme and rigorous tests on a new experimental wristwatch. This special watch, which was not a dive watch was constructed from steel. It was designed with one objective in mind, to be the most water-resistant watch ever built.



By August 1953, Rolex had engineered their experimental wristwatch, which was known as the 'Deep Sea Special'. It was first tested down to 1,080 meters, approximately 3,543 feet, then to 3,150 meters approximately 10,334 feet, which it reached later that year. It was finally ocean tested a third time 3 years later in 1956 to a depth of 3,700 meters, approximately 12,138 feet.




In 1960, with the knowledge that they has gained from the making of the first two watches, Rolex begun work on the third 'Deep Sea Special', which again was constructed to be able to withstand the enormous pressures from the ocean's depths. It would remain unmatched in terms of water-resistance for another 52 years!



Its steel 'Oyster' case measured just 42.7mm in diameter, but had a thickness of 36mm. It was fitted with an 'Oyster' double-sealed crown, a massive screwdown steel caseback and 18mm thick Plexiglass acrylic crystal. The watch was powered by a Rolex 1570 self-winding mechanical movement.




This incredible watch (even by today's standards) was then strapped to the Bathyscaphe Trieste submersible, manned by two intrepid pioneers of the deep, Jacques Piccard and U.S. Navy Lieutenant Don Walsh - in readiness for the ultimate field test.

On January 23rd, 1960 the Rolex Deep Sea Special, an experimental mechanical wristwatch was submerged to the incredible depth of 10,916 meter, 37,800 feet on a mega-dive to the bottom of the Mariana Trench, the deepest known point on the Earth. It survived the historic dive in perfect working order.



To this day the Rolex Deep Sea Special continues to intrigue. Its design is as fascinating as the story behind it. Engineered for extremes, its most prominent feature, the exaggerated monolith that is its crystal, was designed to withstand the 6 crushing tons-per-square-inch of pressure that are present 6 miles deep - its case, though, remains deceptively uncomplicated.

The un-guarded, oversized crown, a trait of its fine vintage. The dial that distorts under the enormous crystal as if it were already at great depth is as clean and tranquil looking as I've seen. For me the watch epitomizes both brawn and beauty.



It evokes a feeling of nostalgia as we look back fondly on the days, when making watches likes these was as much about discovering the unknown as it was about venturing into it. Sadly, but not surprisingly the Rolex Deep Sea Special watch never went into production. Beautifully impractical, but nonetheless desirable, it has remained out of reach -



so it may not come as much of a surprise that as you read this there are those, who are already working on making the unobtainable obtainable! Deep Sea dreamers, your prayers may have been answered! Stay glued to OceanicTime, where all will be revealed shortly . . .

Follow the link HERE to see OceanicTime's rare and exclusive live images of the 2012 Sea-Dweller DEEPSEA Challenge watch . . .

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L�M-TEC Abyss 600M

By TLex L�m-Tec have revealed their line-up for 2013, which includes 7 new models with a total of 34 different looks! There are two or three new bronze models for bronze fans, but it was this particular model that stood out for me. The new Abyss 600M-3 with its 48mm 316L Stainless steel case that has a bead-blasted and Titanium Carbide PVD coating.



The case is fitted with a Sapphire crystal with double sided clear anti-reflective coating. It features a screw lock crown with a double diamond sealing system allowing for up to 600 meters / 1980 ft. of water resistance. The matte black CNC cut dial is with MDV Technology in "old radium tone" luminous material. The Abyss 600M is powered by a Japan made Miyota 9015 automatic movement.



Follow the link HERE to see the complete 2013 L�m-Tec collection . . .

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Monday, January 21, 2013

PARMIGIANI Fleurier Pershing Tourbillon ABYSS

By TLex Introducing the new Parmigiani Fleurier Pershing Tourbillon Abyss, which features a 45mm x 14.2mm round case constructed in polished Titanium with an 18ct satin finished rose gold unidirectional rotational bezel. Its water-resistance is 100m (hardly abyssal really).



It is fitted with a Sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment. Special features include a display Sapphire crystal case back, which affords a view of the Parmigiani Fleurier PF510 Caliber, 30-second hand-wound tourbillon movement with one-week of power reserve. Decorated with C�tes de Gen�ve" and hand-bevelled bridges.



The watch dial is with a wave pattern in 'deep-sea' blue with applique indexes and delta-shaped hands with luminescent coating.



Functions include: central hours and minutes, seconds and a power reserve indicator. The watch is fitted with an alligator strap in indigo blue with a folding buckle.

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JAEGER-LeCoultre Deep Sea Chronograph Vintage CERMET

By TLex The new Jaeger-LeCoultre Deep Sea Chronograph Vintage Cermet Ref. 208A57J Boutique Edition boasts a very special high-tech case made of reinforced cermet. Cermet is a composite material composed of (cer)amic and (met)allic materials. It has been designed to have the optimal properties of both ceramic, such as high temperature resistance and hardness, and those of a metal, such as the ability to undergo plastic deformation.

The new Deep Sea Chronograph Vintage Cermet with its three-counter chronograph movement takes its aesthetic inspiration from the the 1959 Memovox Deep Sea model. The chronograph operating indicator is inspired by the Jaeger-LeCoultre 1930s �chronoflight� onboard instrument.



Divers needs to be able to see at a glance whether the disc shows that the chronograph is ready for use (white), in operation (white/red) or stopped (red).

Jaeger-LeCoultre have cleverly combined cutting edge case technology with a heritage inspired design. There's the stark contrast of the matte ceremet case, the new home of the vintage Deep Sea dial with its tropical hands and hour-markers, not forgetting also the simple yet ingenious chrono-indicator, a beautiful sight. I'm still not sure I'm ready for a ceramic watch case, but such is the nature of the industry these days - I'm sure we'll see more, too!



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PANERAI Luminor Submersible 1950 3 Days Automatic CERAMICA PAM 508

By TLex It looks incredible, but are we sure we really want Submersible in ceramic? I mean are we ready for it yet? Despite the obvious benefits of a ceramic case, which is lightweight, tough, resistant to scratches, corrosive agents and high temperatures and is probably the ideal case material for a mil-spec. diver - 

and irrational as it may seem, I still need to feel the reassuring weight of my watch strapped to my wrist for fear of thinking I might just have paid the price of small sports car for a toy!



The new Luminor Submersible 1950 3 Days Automatic Ceramica AKA PAM 508 was released as part of Panerai's 'Special Editions' collection unveiled at SIHH 2013. With its matte ceramic case, its P.9000 manufacture movement and the details inspired by the historic heritage of the brand, it represents a perfect synthesis of history, technology and watchmaking design.



The Luminor 1950 case with the bridge protecting the winding crown, a characteristic Panerai feature, is made of brushed black ceramic, a material synthesized from zirconium oxide powder which ensures lightness and toughness as well as resistance to scratches, corrosive agents and high temperatures.



The classic shape of the case 47 mm in diameter is created by a complex series of working and finishing operations which also give it a particularly uniform, smooth, matte appearance. The unidirectional rotating bezel enabling the length of the dive to be determined is made of the same matte ceramic as the case. 

The only color which contrasts with the profound black of the case and of the dial is the ecru Super-LumiNova� on the applied hour markers, the graduated scale and the partially skeletonized hands.



The date window is at three o�clock while the classic Panerai small seconds dial is positioned at nine o�clock. The case is sealed by a titanium back coated in black, with an SLC torpedo engraved in the middle, and it contains the automatic P.9000 calibre, entirely developed and executed in the Panerai manufacture in Neuchatel.



The Luminor Submersible 1950 3 Days Automatic Ceramica is water-resistant to 30 atmospheres (300 meters) and it is supplied with a black leather strap, fastened by a large trapezoid-shaped buckle covered in black PVD.



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PANERAI Luminor Submersible 1950 3 Days Power Reserve Automatic BRONZO PAM 507

By TLex Officine Panerai have released their 2nd bronze model! Two short years after the release of the PAM 382, the bronze diver that so many other bronze dive watches released since have aspired to.



The 382 received extraordinary international recognition after appearing in the Hollywood movie, Expendables2 in which a number of the cast were seen sporting Bronze Submersibles, gifted to them by Paneraisti and on screen legend, Sylvester Stallone.



The release of the PAM 507 speaks volumes to me - showing that there is a market for bronze watches bronze. Let's hope that this alluring material becomes a mainstay of Panerai's future collections. Once again we see the lovely aged CuSn8 Bronze alloy with its soft warm patina complimented by an Olive green dial, but has the simplicity of the watch been spoiled by the addition of a power-reserve indicator?



The new Luminor Submersible 1950 3 Days Power Reserve Automatic Bronzo AKA PAM 507 was released as part of Panerai's 'Special Editions' collection unveiled at SIHH 2013. Its new feature which distinguishes this model is in the dial: the display of the power reserve of three days on an arc-shaped indicator positioned at four o'clock.



This very useful function joins the date display, the device for zeroing the seconds hand that is invaluable when synchronizing the watch with a reference time signal, and the system for rapidly adjusting the time, the hand of which can be moved forward or backwards in jumps of one hour without affecting the running of the watch.



The dark green dial, with applied hour markers, is surrounded by a studded bezel in bronze with the scale for measuring the length of the dive. The bezel is connected to the case by a special system designed and patented by Officine Panerai to ensure that the ratchet moves precisely from one click to the next.



Check out the new PAM00364 and PAM00389 . . .

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PANERAI Luminor SUBMERSIBLE 1950 2500M 3 Days Automatic TITANIO PAM 364

By TLex Officine Panerai have released another 2500m diving beast! The new Luminor Submersible 1950 2500M 3 Days Automatic Titanio, AKA PAM 364 was released as part of Panerai's 'Special Editions' collection unveiled at SIHH 2013.



The new PAM 364 is Panerai's third model (I believe) with such a depth-rating. Panerai's first 2500m diver was the PAM 194 followed by the PAM 285 in 2009. Despite a name as long as my arm, there's a certain sense of familiarity with the new PAM 364 model. 

Officine Panerai have a tradition of combining classic Italian diving heritage (styling) with exceptional performance. The new Luminor Submersible 1950 2500M 3 DAYS Automatic Titanio is no different. It ticks all the right boxes in terms of looks and ability.



It's 47mm case is made of brushed Titanium, a material which combines lightness with the structural robustness required to resist high pressures, external stresses and corrosion making it the perfect a professional instrument for any diver.



Its exceptional water-resistance is ensured by Panerai's trademark device protecting the winding crown, which guarantees it to a depth of 2500 meters. Once again, we see an HEV with the chemical symbol 'He' for Helium on the caseside at eight o'clock enabling helium to escape during decompression after ascending from deep dives, preventing any pressurized gas from potentially damaging the watch.



The unidirectional rotational divers bezel has small markers in relief and a graduated dive-time scale, which enables the length of the dive to be read: it's a design that incorporates Panerai's signature bezel studs, inspired by the legendary Egiziano, a model created in 1956 for the Egyptian Navy.



The further protection is given by a 5.9mm thick domed Sapphire crystal. The dial combines circular and baton shaped hour markers, applied in relief and coated with a luminous material. As are the semi-skeletonized hands, thus ensuring optimum visibility even in the depths of the ocean. There's the all too familiar sight of a sub dial at nine o'clock with a small sweeping seconds hand, whilst the date window is at three o�clock.



The Special Edition Luminor Submersible 1950 2500m 3 Days Automatic is powered by the P.9000 automatic movement, completely designed and made in-house by Officine Panerai in the manufacture in Neuch�tel. Another 'grail' watch too lust after!



Also see the new PANERAI Luminor Submersible AMAGNETIC PAM 389.

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