Thursday, February 14, 2013

LIMES Endurance LEVIATHAN Review

BACKGROUND LIMES is a brand of the well known German case maker, Ickler, founded by Karl Ickler in 1924. Today the company is managed by the third-generation, Thomas Ickler. Ickler started making private label watches in the 90s. They began the LIMES brand a few years later with the goal to build mechanical wristwatches, crafted mainly by hand and using high-quality mechanical movements, combined with high-quality cases made by Ickler. LIMES is known today for its divers collection, called �Endurance�. The Leviathan is the latest addition to this collection.



AESTHETIC The Leviathan combines elegance with ruggedness. It has a very German, neat and orderly dial contrasted against a chiseled looking steel case. The watch would wear well with either business or casual attire. It�s unpretentious, classic looks will appeal to those that have an appreciation for more simplistic and minimalistic watches. LIMES are not ones for short-term trends or fashions; the Leviathan�s design illustrates this point well.



DIAL The Leviathan has a neat and well balanced looking dial in gloss black with contrasting white trapezoid block shaped dial markers. There�s an unobtrusive looking chapter ring with white minutes / seconds running around its perimeter. The pristine text on the dial has been kept to a minimum � only the �LIMES� name plus �Endurance� and �Automatic�. The dial offers excellent legibility owing to its wide aperture. Its black date window has been carefully positioned at 6 o�clock so as not to upset the balance of the dial.



HANDS The Leviatan has set of white block hands with a white needle second hand. The handset compliments the dial markers very nicely.

LUME The luminous indices and hands are in white BGW9 SuperLuminova, which emits a blue light. The white suits the watch well as it creates contrast as well as excellent legibility against the black dial. The blue lume is a nice contemporary feature. I would rate the lume at �good�.



CASE The Leviathan�s case has been crafted in-house from a solid block of high-grade Stainless steel using the latest in high-tech CNC machinery and then hand satin finished. It uses (possibly) the largest sized dive watch platform ever produced by Ickler. This is new territory for the casemakers, who produce (by comparison) modestly sized cases that typically measure 41.5mm in diameter.

Whilst Leviathan�s case is larger, it isn�t as imposing as its name might suggest. It has a diameter 44.5mm with a thickness of just 13.5mm. The design of the main case is round with angular sloping lugs that have straight lines on the top and sides, and rounded undersides, so that the watch fits comfortably on the wrist. All edges and corners have been given a smooth and rounded finish.



BEZEL The Leviathan is fitted with a 60-click type uni-directional rotational divers bezel with a black PVD plated insert with an elapsed dive-time scale crisply marked out in silver. There�s a triangular marker at 12 o�clock with a luminous pip in the center. The bezel action is light and springy with precisely measured one minute intervals. My personal preference has always been for 60-click type bezels, I'm not sure why really? Perhaps they feel and sound a little more gratifying. The PVD insert should hold up better than a traditional aluminum insert. However a ceramic insert would have been a little more �de rigueur�!



CROWN The Leviathan it fitted with a beautifully designed fluted crown that has been signed with an 'i' for Ickler. The fluting offers excellent grip whilst its generous size makes handling a joy. The crown is of course a screwdown type with double seals. The stem is wide and sturdy � sometimes I wonder if people might think I have a bit of crown fetish, the way I keep banging on about them, I don�t! It�s just that they are inherently weak and vulnerable, so the sturdier the better. I award top marks for the Leviathan�s crown system!



CASEBACK The caseback is a solid steel screw-down type sealed with double O-ring gaskets. It has an acid engraving with the �LIMES Leviathan� name along with some of the watch�s specification. Otherwise it�s pretty unremarkable looking.

CRYSTAL The Leviathan is fitted with a flat Sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating on its inside. I�m not sure of its actual dimensions, sorry. Imho anything other than a flat crystal would be wrong on this watch.

WATER-resistance The Leviathan has a water-resistance of 30 bar, 300m ? 1000feet. I�m not sure it would really qualify as a �Leviathan� of the deep, but 300m is well within industry norms for a �true� divers watch.



MOVEMENT The Leviathan is powered by Swiss made automatic mechanical movement, the Sellita SW 200. The SW 200 is comparable to the ETA 2824. I�m not sure if it has been regulated by Ickler or not, but it has been keeping perfect time. I didn�t read any mention of a custom rotor, either, but a LIMES or Ickler signed rotor would certainly add value and appeal.



BRACELET The Leviathan is supplied with either a black rubber divers strap or a solid three link Stainless steel bracelet with a generic style diver�s clasp with trip-lock closure and a diver�s extension. The bracelet is attached to the case by screws. The end links aren�t quite flush up against the case, but it�s not at all obvious looking. The bracelet has a light satin finish that allows you to see the grain of metal.



BUILD Ickler have a policy of stringent quality control. Each watch is checked at every stage of its manufacturing process: from the turning and milling of each of its components, to finishing and assembly. The mounting of the movements, dials and hands is done by hand. Every watch is thoroughly tested before it leaves the factory, and is accompanied by a two year international warranty.



on the WRIST It�s quite a heavy watch, but it wears a lot smaller than it is thanks to downwardly angled lugs and rounded undersides. Also the caseback is smooth with no indentations from engraving. I wear all my watches loose and positioned right up against my hand. The Leviathan sits comfortably in this position. But at the end of the day � how long is a piece of string? What might be light and comfortable to me might cripple the next man. For reference my wrist size is 7 3/4��.



VALUE On the steel bracelet the Leviathan has a price tag of 1195euro / approx. 1600USD. This is great value for an all German � designed, built and engineered watch, made by a case manufacturing company that has been in the watch industry since 1924.



It isn't too difficult to find a Chino-Swiss or Chino-German made diver selling for more. There is real value in knowing that your watch was actually built in Germany from start to finish and that it didn�t take a detour via Guangzhou on its way, right? I am not saying that there is anything wrong with that � there isn�t! It�s just that, if that is the case, then it should be reflected in the watch�s price.



COMPARE It�s been a real struggle to compare anything to the Leviathan because it is unique in that it was manufactured by its parent company, Ickler. This means the middle man was taken out of the equation so to speak. Making it hard to find mulch else similar, that is 100% German made and at its price point. I would suggest looking at ARCHIMEDE, also by Ickler, and if your budget is bigger you should take a look at Sinn or UTS.


� OceanicTime
OVERALL r a t i n g / 5  
��Ich bin ein Deutscher!�� The LIMES Leviathan mightn�t be one of the most exciting looking divers on the planet. It�s sporty, military-esque design is a tad staid and sober, but that�s OK. it�s supposed be. The good thing about this is that you�re less likely tire or grow bored of it. What it lacks in panache or flair � it makes up for in bucket loads of �good old fashioned� no nonsense German engineering. If it was a car it would be Volkswagen, not quite as refined as a Mercedes or a BMW, but as solid and dependable a piece of German engineering as there is, and one that will surely stand the test of time!

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Wednesday, February 13, 2013

Jaeger-LeCoultre Deep Sea Chronograph CEREMET 2ndLook

By TLex Here's a quick 2nd look at look at the new JLC Deep Sea Chrono Ceremet - well a 3rd look because we saw it HERE and HERE.



There are two different versions, one with vintage-style orange lume and one (shown here) with regular lume.



I feel somewhat ambivalent about this watch. On the one hand it is undeniably beautiful. I also admire the advances in case technology, but on the other hand, aren't ceramic watch cases a little bit - 



what's the word I'm searching for? - Oh, yes that's it - poncey (pretentious)! 

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VintageVDB 2013 CERAMICA

By TLex Here's the new VintageVDB 2013 Ceramica PROTOTYPE watch!



Specification includes: a bronze case measuring 45mm 19.5mm with a lug to lug measurement of 54mm. I'm not sure which particular Bronze alloy is used, but the color looks lovely!



Special features include a brown ceramic bezel insert with steel studs and a large domed Sapphire crystal.



Despite being a modern watchmaking material the ceramic has been used in such a way that it furthers its old school appearance - very clever!



The watch is powered by a Swiss made ETA 2893-2 automatic mechanical movement with independent GMT pointer.



Follow the link HERE for pre-orders or EMAIL Vintage VDB directly for further info.

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Tuesday, February 12, 2013

ANITQUA 'DSS' 1953 Prototype

By TLex There's another player with a Rolex DSS (deep sea special) homage watch! Here are some spy shots of the first model from ANTIQUA, a new label (coming soon) from moVas. Unlike the HELBERG CH1, which takes its design cues from the 1960 version of the DSS, the one that made its famous decent to the bottom of the Marian Trench, -



the ANTIQUA DSS 1953 is a homage of the first DSS experimental watch built by Rolex in 1953 - hence the name DSS 1953. That watch was initially ocean tested by Rolex to a depth 1,080 meters, approximately 3,543 feet and then to 3,150 meters approximately 10,334 feet - and as such the ANTIQUA DSS 1953 will have a water-resistance of 3,150M.



Shown here is an early prototype of the DSS 1953; lots of changes are planned for the case. To start with it's too narrow on the sides by around 4mm, the lugs should also be extend downwards a little further, so that the watch sits closer to the wrist. The finishing isn't correct either. The finished models will have properly beveled edges.



The crown tube should be installed with a hex key, it is also missing the huge O-ring that the original version had with its protruding crown tube. At the moment it's flush into the case which is not accurate. The bezel should also be raised so that it is a little more prominent.

ANTIQUA are experimenting with the dial printing, but will create dials as per original watch with the lumed dots raised in a dome shape, with an ultra-thin black outline before and a gold outline. The gold design will be printed first, and then the black printed around it, to create the illusion of  the text 'coming through'.



Two versions of the case are planned. The original watch had a lug to lug measurement of around 60+mm, which is unwearable, so a shorter version with a 48mm lug to lug will be made available. This will be supplied with a leather or rubber strap, the other version will come on a spring-loaded Rolex-style Oyster bracelet. There will also be an option for either a Sapphire or hardened mineral crystal.

That's it for now! Stay tuned to OceanicTime, where we will closely follow and chronicle the development of the ANTIQUA DSS 1953 . . .
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Monday, February 11, 2013

Greg Stevens DESIGN 'Benrus Type I Inspired' DIVER

By TLex Greg Stevens Design has proposed a military dive watch inspired by the Benrus Type I. Here are a couple of early renderings that he showed on his Facebook page - his take on the legendary watch. Its case would measure 46mm in diameter x 15mm thick with 24mm lugs, a domed Sapphire crystal and a water-resistance of 300m.



The versions shown here are with typical divers' timing bezels, but he is also considering a 12hr bezel for a 2nd time zone. Finishes would be in bead-blasted or black PVD. Owing to scarcity of Swiss movements these days (particularly ETA) the watches would most likely be powered by a Japanese made Miyota 9015 automatic movement. Its Price would be in the region 7-800USD and would include 2 of his custom straps.



Like it? Then 'LIKE' it on his Facebook page and leave a comment persuding him to make it!
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MARATHON Bilingual DIVER

By TLex Introducing the Bilingual Diver's Automatic JDD (jumbo day / date) Ref. WW194021, the latest addition to Marathon's authentic military watches collection. The big tough dive watch is intended for use by 'search and rescue' SAR.



It features a large dial with large numbers for easy visibility. Its dial and hands are equipped with a total of 16 luminescent tritium gas tubes offering clear visibility both day and night.Its sweep second-hand has tritium tube on its tip.



Its name is taken from the easy-set bilingual (English or French) day and date function. Its Stainless steel case measures 46mm in diameter x 17mm thick. It has a water resistance of 300m/1000ft.



The watch case is fitted with a uni-directional 120-click bezel with '0 to 60' countdown and Maraglo� luminous triangle 12hr marker, a domed shaped Sapphire crystal and screw-down crown and caseback. The case back allows for a personalized engraving.



The Bilingual Diver is powered by an automatic mechanical movement with 26 jewels. It is presented on a black vulcanized rubber divers straps with a Stainless steel buckle. An optional 22mm Stainless steel bracelet available.



PRICE is 1360USD. Follow the logo below to discover Marathon's military watches collection . . .

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MOLARITY Watch Group M79

By TLex Introducing the M79 from Molarity Watch Group! It's imposing 316L Stainless steel case measures 48mm in diameter x 14mm thick. It is available in two finishes: brushed steel or black IP coating.



Features include: a 316L Stainless steel uni-directional rotational divers bezel with engraved elapsed dive time, a 'flat type' K1 hardened mineral crystal glass, a solid steel case back and lockable crown system.



The watch is powered by a YM91 Quartz movement with: 1/5-second chronograph / stopwatch (Can measure up to 59�59�80, split time measurement), hours, minutes, small seconds and date (3 o'clock).



The watches have multilevel sandwich dials with bold numerals and drilled hands. The IP versions have carbon on theirs. They have a water-resistance of just 100m, so aren't divers per se, but if you like big sporty watches with U-BOAT-esque styling - starting at 496USD the M79 might be worth further investigation!



Follow the link HERE for further details on the M79, or HERE to discover the MWG Deep Diver . . .

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Sunday, February 10, 2013

VintageVDB 2013 PROTOTYPE

By TLex Here's the new VintageVDB 2013 prototype watch getting wet! 



The model shown here is powered by a Swiss made ETA 2824-2. However there will also be GMT version, powered by an ETA 2893-2 automatic mechanical movement with independent GMT pointer.



This is the pearl-blasted 316L Stainless steel version. Photos of the bronze versions and GMT versions with black and brown ceramic bezel inserts are coming soon.



Of its features are: a highly domed Sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating, a uni-directional rotational divers bezel, signed-engraved screwdown crown and caseback and 500 meters of water-resistance.



Dimensions are as follows: 45mm x 54mm x 19.5mm. They will come on VDB rubber straps attached to the case via screwed lug bars.




Follow the link HERE for pre-orders or EMAIL Vintage VDB directly for further info.



Follow the link to discover the new Vintage-VDB CHRONO . . .

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