Sunday, December 9, 2012

STEINHART Marine Chronograph Edizione BRONZO

By TLex Sorry folks, I ballsed up - all 55 pieces have already sold out! The wonderful Marine Chronograph Edizione Bronzo from Steinhart was on my schedule to post since last week, only it sold out before I got a chance to give you a heads up.



So as I hang my head in shame and you sit there lamenting over what could have been, I thought I best tell you about some its lovely features anyway . .



This is basically a bronze version of the Marine Chronograph BLUE that was released early this year. The watch is based on the Pre-Vendome PANERAI 1993 Mare Nostrum, a very lovely Italian naval watch.



Special features include: a 48mm aged bronze watch case with LE # lug engraving. Its water-resistant is minimal, no showers or swimming. It has green sandwich dial and is powered by a Swiss made ETA Valjoux 7753 top certified chronometer.



It is presented on a handmade, vintage buffalo leather brown strap with LE # and a signed bronze Pre-V buckle.



Follow the link HERE for further details . . .

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Friday, December 7, 2012

DEEP BLUE Daynight 65 T-100 VALJOUX 7750

By TLex The new Daynight T-100 Chrono from DEEP BLUE Watches is powered by the Swiss made Valjoux 7750 automatic mechanical chronograph caliber with 25 Jewels, beating at 28,800 VPH. Features include: day and date, 12 hour counter, running Seconds and minute counter.



It's 316L Stainless steel case measures 47mm x 18.5mm with a lug to lug measurement of 55mm. It features: a screw down crown, chrono pushers and caseback. It is water-resistant to 500 meters or 1650 Feet.



The dial, which comes in black or blue with a matching black or blue 120 click unidirectional rotational divers bezel. the bezel has a BGW9 Superluminova applied Sapphire inlay. The dial as an aperture of 37mm, which can be seen in all its glory through the 4mm thick Sapphire crystal.



The watch is packed with no less than 65 Tritium gas tubes! The dial has 63 tubes (60 Minute Markers, 3 Sub-dial hands), Hands 2 Tritium tubes



The watch is fitted with a solid steel 26mm bracelet with divers wetsuit extension, 4 micro-adjustments, half links, full links, screw in links, a 5.5mm thickness and a divers safety clasp.



For further details on pricing an ordering, please follow the link HERE or follow the DEEP BLUE Watches logo below . . .

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Thursday, December 6, 2012

SQUALE 20 Atmos ROOT BEER

By TLex SQUALE have a second version of their classic Submariner watch, the 20 Atmos. The new Squale 20 ATMOS Root Beer Ref. 1545 watch is made in Switzerland and powered by a Swiss made ETA 2824-2 automatic movement. Features include: a uni-directional 60 click rotational divers bezel with 'Root Beer' aluminum bezel insert, a screwdown crown and caseback and a flat Sapphire crystal with date magnifier.



Of the three new 20 Atmos models, this one is definitely my favorite. The 'Root Beer' dial and bezel are very attractive. The gold highlights perfectly compliment them. The new 20 Atmos 'Root Beer' is available HERE from Gnomon Watches, who are an official Squale AD . . .



Also read about the: SQUALE 20 Atmos CLASSIC / VINTAGE

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Wednesday, December 5, 2012

Girard-Perregaux Sea HAWK FOReverglades LE

By TLex Here's the Limited Edition Sea HAWK FOReverglades. FOReverglades is an environmentally minded public art exhibition by International Artists William Sweetlove and artists collective, Cracking Art Group, for Art Week in Miami, where the new HAWK collection was unveiled.



Of the features peculiar to the special FOReverglades edition are: a red chapter ring, a specially designed caseback with a red enamel alligator as well as this hand-stitched white leather band with embroidered red gator motif.



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Girard-Perregaux Sea HAWK FOReverglades LE



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Tuesday, December 4, 2012

Girard-Perregaux Sea HAWK

By TLex INTRODUCING the new Girard-Perregaux Sea Hawk, the divers model of GP's new 'HAWK' sports collection, the other model being a sports chronograph called the Chrono Hawk.

We were lucky enough to get a preview of the new Sea Hawk last week, which I found to be a bit of a departure from the previous Sea Hawk models, the designs of which date back to the 2004 SHII Pro, which boasted 3000m of water-resistance and dual Helium escape valves.



I have now had time to look at the new design in more detail and digest some of its more radical features that were at first a little inexplicable; at least I was not sure what to make of them myself.

Let's start of with the 1000m water-resistant watch case, which has been constructed from Stainless steel and measures an optimal 44mm in diameter. It has a prominent brushed finish, not a polished surface in sight!



It features just one HEV (two would have been overkill, right?), which has been moved back to a more traditional position on the left lateral side of the case; previous SH Pro models had the HEV placed on the right side of case at 2:30.

Further features of the case include: a domed Sapphire crystal with AR-coating (on both sides hopefully) and a unidirectional rotational divers bezel of which there are two versions: one in rubber Ref. 49960-19-631-FK6A and one in steel Ref. 49960-11-131-FK6A. Interestingly the bezel sits on a rubberized portion of case - almost like a shock-absorbing cushion. GP have not spoken about the reasons for using rubber for the top of the case. I really hope that it serves some purpose other than just looking cool?!



The crown position and the caseback engraving seem to be the only two features that have been carried over to the new case design. It's great to see the porpoise take its rightful position on the caseback. And I still hold the belief that 4 o'clock crown position is one the most appropriate for a dive watch. The rubberized crown is protected by an elongated angular crown guard. It looks like it's separate rather than a part of the main case, but there is no word from GP to support this.

The design of case is not sleek or classic nor is it particularly sober rather a striking mixture of angles and curves. It has the same polarizing, ugly beauty that watches like the Ploprof process. I can't think of any others at the moment, but there must be more.



Although I personally love this look, it does surprise me that GP didn't take the more predictable walk down memory lane as is the fashion these days, but instead headed boldly into the future. The first generation of Sea Hawks were launched in the 1940s. Perhaps an additional model will come later that will be more heritage influenced. This would make sense to me. 

If you look at competitors such as JLC or IWC, they have both contemporary and vintage style divers collections. On the other hand if you like more classic designs, JeanRichard, GP's sister company have both the Aquascope and Diverscope.



Onto the dial, which has a honey-comb pattern with clear, luminescent markers, and indications in relief, which GP say are inspired by the famous Girard-Perregaux Bridge creating a striking three-dimensional effect.


When I first saw the dial, I have to admit I felt is was over-designed. I missed the simpler sandpaper-like textured dials of the previous SH Pro models that have now been inherited by the ZEGNA High-Performance SEA DIVER, also recently designed by Girard-Perregaux.

But after watching the dials being assembled by hand at the GP Manufacture in the video. I have a new found appreciation for them. Let's hope that they have received the same legendary lume application that previous models had.



Features of the dial include: a power-reserve indicator (6 o'clock), hours, minutes and sub-seconds (10 o'clock) and the quirky 1.30 date position. A remnant dial set up left over by previous SH Pros and one that is very nicely balanced despite its slight idiosyncrasies. My only gripe is that GP have still neglected to lume the sub-seconds.

Some regulations for divers watches stipulate that there should be some way of knowing that the movement is running. It is not enough to see a fully charged power-reserve indicator is it?. Surely if the movement dies it would remain where it is - giving a false scene of security, no? Movement geeks, please feel free to chime in on this.



Speaking of the movement. Girard-Perregaux's in-house calibre GP3300 powers the new Sea Hawk as it has done for that last few generations of SH models. It is a very robust and reliable self-winding mechanical movement with 46hrs power-reserve.

The new Sea Hawk is available with either a rubber or hand-stitched leather strap. These are integrated into the case, which is not an issue for me because I wouldn't dream of using a third party strap on my GP, but for others this will greatly limit strap options. This is even more the pity, when you consider that the new SH finally uses screwed lugs! I hope that GP make a bracelet for the watch, but it's unlikely.



So what do I think? As mentioned earlier, it's a 'love it' or 'hate it' kind of design. Ultra-modern and rugged and not particularly elegant. A bit of an anomaly, too. Whilst it can appear to be a little awkward and clumsy on first inspection, it is actually a very beautifully sculpted design. It's a bit of a dive watch cliche, but it's very 'toolish' and well, yes - it's cool, too!

My only misgiving is that whilst it has been painstakingly designed and engineered it has been for the sake of looks alone. There is no evidence so far that the new Sea Hawk has pioneered or incorporated any new dive watch technologies, which is a bit of a shame. My final judgement shall be reserved for when I get a chance to spend some quality time with one!



TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS
Case in steel
Bezel: rubber or steel
Diameter: 44.00 mm
Crystal: anti-reflective sapphire
Case-back: screw-down
Water resistance: 1,000 meters
Girard-Perregaux GP3300
Self-winding mechanical movement
Caliber: 11 � ���
Frequency: 28,800 vibrations/hour (4 Hz)
Power reserve: min. 46 hours
Jewels: 27
Functions: hour, minute, date, small second, power reserve indicator
Strap in black rubber
Steel folding buckle

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Girard-Perregaux new HAWK collection



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Girard-Perregaux Sea HAWK [PR]

From GP Water-resistant down to 1,000 meters! The depths of the ocean cannot intimidate the new Sea Hawk. It is a diving watch that makes an unmistakable statement of its intentions. 

Designed to withstand the rigors of deep SCUBA diving, it incorporates a helium valve for use during decompression and an anti-clockwise turning bezel for dive-time calculations. A series of tests is carried out to demonstrate its capacity to operate at a depth of 1,000 meters where the pressure is more than 1,500 kg. 



This is the level of water-resistance required to meet the rigorous standards of ISO 6425. The construction of the case, and particularly its screwed case back, give the watch excellent shock- resistance, as does the crown which is protected by a perfectly integrated crown guard and positioned at 4 o�clock for greater comfort on the wrist.



Its character is emphasized by the contrast between the elements in brushed steel and those in rubber � the bezel, the octagonal ring and the crown. The dial was primarily designed for legibility; it is black, underlined by a motif that echoes the emblematic Girard-Perregaux Bridge, with information on several levels. The markers and hands are coated with luminescent material and certain elements are highlighted with orange, such as the power reserve and the small seconds. The date is displayed at 1.30 o�clock creating a beautiful balance on the face.



There is no doubt that the new Sea Hawk earns its place among high-performance diving watches, confirmed by its automatic mechanical movement caliber GP3300.

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Monday, December 3, 2012

AQUADIVE Model 77 NOS

By TLex Here are a few more pictures of the 'Model 77', Aquadive's latest release featuring a uniquely designed NOS (new old stock) case design from the 1970s. 



The case boasts a sunburst brushed steel finish and a special PVD coating, which has been applied onto a copper-alloy base for increased durability.



Further features of the Model 77 include a black galvanized dial and a handset that is an exact replica of that used by the original Maritime automatic from 1977.



Notice also the specially domed caseback that was originally made to accommodate its Anton Schild automatic mechanical movement.









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ROLEX Sea-Dweller DEEPSEA Challenge LIVE





























�OceanicTime

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