By TLex Introducing Officine Panerai's 2013 Luminor Submersible collection, which includes the: PAM 389, PAM 364, PAM 507 and PAM 508.
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Thursday, January 31, 2013
HELBERG CH1
By TLex Introducing HELBERG, a new and exciting watch brand from H2O Watch GmbH, creators of the popular H2O Kalmar 3000m diver and new ORCA Series models. HELBERG will begin to develop and produce vintage: dive, military and pilot watches - icons and legends resurrected from the pages of horological history.
Watches that have (for the most part) remained inaccessible, hidden away in museums and buried deep in the archives of some the world�s oldest and most established watch companies.
These watches however will not be homages or copies. Using the highest technical and aesthetic aspirations, HELBERG plan to redesign and re-engineer watches that have been unobtainable even to the most seasoned collectors whilst ensuring that their dimensions and technical specifications meet the needs of the watch collectors and enthusiasts of today.
Their first model, the CH1 takes its unique aesthetic from the Rolex Deep Sea Special, an experimental watch that was first designed by Rolex in the early 50s and that later evolved to become the deepest ever mechanical wristwatch with a water-resistance exceeding 10�000 meters.
It would be more than half a century before it was finally superseded by another Rolex, the Sea-Dweller DEEPSEA Challenge watch. Owning a watch such as the DSS has been confined only to our day dreams!
Realized and re-engineered, the HELBERG CH1 retains all the wonderful personality traits of the 1960 DSS - such as its elongated case, huge lug adapters, heavy duty caseback, elegant dial and massively domed crystal-
however packaged into a modern and (relatively) modestly sized wristwatch that will not only wear well and perform flawlessly, but that will capture the imaginations of those of us who have always dreamt of owning such a watch.
Engineered in Germany and manufactured in Switzerland, all watches under the HELBERG brand will be �SWISS MADE� according to Swiss industry regulations. The CH1 is powered by an ETA 2824 automatic, mechanical movement.
It features a Stainless steel or bronze CuSn8 case with two bezel designs: one highly polished minimalistic bezel and one brushed divers style bezel. It is fitted with either a 15mm spherical or 7mm highly domed Sapphire crystal and a closed or display back.
Crystal and caseback specification depending the CH1�s water-resistance is either: 300 atmos., 3000 meters, 9842 ft. with a double domed Sapphire glass and display caseback - or - 600 atmos., 6000 meters, 19685 ft. with an optional spherical Sapphire glass and closed case back.
The CH1 will come in two case materials. The Stainless Steel version�s case, bezel, crown and case back will be made from brushed 316L surgical grade Stainless steel. The Bronze version�s case and bezel will be made from brushed German bronze CuSn8. Its crown will be in 316L surgical grade Stainless steel and its case back will be in Grade 5 Titanium.
Further features include: Viton and Teflon gaskets, an anti-magnetic shield up to 70.000A/m., AR-coated, anti scratch Sapphire crystals, bezel with 120 positions, a Stainless steel bracelet with micro adjustment (optional), hands, dial, bezel with BGw9 SuperLuminova, a chromed or golden polished handset, and a dial with chromed or golden markers.
DIMENSIONS are as follows: bezel diameter: 41mm, case diameter: 42mm, thickness with display case back and without crystal: 16.80mm, thickness with closed case back and without crystal: 18.80mm, thickness with double domed crystal and display case back: 19.20mm, thickness with spherical crystal and display case back: 27.25mm, Length: 57mm, thickness of the opt. spherical crystal: 15mm, thickness of the double domed crystal: 7mm, Sapphire crystal diameter: 31mm, dial diameter: 30mm, space between lugs: 22mm, crown diameter: 9mm
The HELBERG CH1 pricing and images of the bronze model will be announced here with the start of the pre-order period 07.02.2013! HELBERG expect delivery of the HELBERG CH1 in the Summer of 2013.
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Watches that have (for the most part) remained inaccessible, hidden away in museums and buried deep in the archives of some the world�s oldest and most established watch companies.
These watches however will not be homages or copies. Using the highest technical and aesthetic aspirations, HELBERG plan to redesign and re-engineer watches that have been unobtainable even to the most seasoned collectors whilst ensuring that their dimensions and technical specifications meet the needs of the watch collectors and enthusiasts of today.
Their first model, the CH1 takes its unique aesthetic from the Rolex Deep Sea Special, an experimental watch that was first designed by Rolex in the early 50s and that later evolved to become the deepest ever mechanical wristwatch with a water-resistance exceeding 10�000 meters.
It would be more than half a century before it was finally superseded by another Rolex, the Sea-Dweller DEEPSEA Challenge watch. Owning a watch such as the DSS has been confined only to our day dreams!
Realized and re-engineered, the HELBERG CH1 retains all the wonderful personality traits of the 1960 DSS - such as its elongated case, huge lug adapters, heavy duty caseback, elegant dial and massively domed crystal-
however packaged into a modern and (relatively) modestly sized wristwatch that will not only wear well and perform flawlessly, but that will capture the imaginations of those of us who have always dreamt of owning such a watch.
Engineered in Germany and manufactured in Switzerland, all watches under the HELBERG brand will be �SWISS MADE� according to Swiss industry regulations. The CH1 is powered by an ETA 2824 automatic, mechanical movement.
It features a Stainless steel or bronze CuSn8 case with two bezel designs: one highly polished minimalistic bezel and one brushed divers style bezel. It is fitted with either a 15mm spherical or 7mm highly domed Sapphire crystal and a closed or display back.
Crystal and caseback specification depending the CH1�s water-resistance is either: 300 atmos., 3000 meters, 9842 ft. with a double domed Sapphire glass and display caseback - or - 600 atmos., 6000 meters, 19685 ft. with an optional spherical Sapphire glass and closed case back.
The CH1 will come in two case materials. The Stainless Steel version�s case, bezel, crown and case back will be made from brushed 316L surgical grade Stainless steel. The Bronze version�s case and bezel will be made from brushed German bronze CuSn8. Its crown will be in 316L surgical grade Stainless steel and its case back will be in Grade 5 Titanium.
Further features include: Viton and Teflon gaskets, an anti-magnetic shield up to 70.000A/m., AR-coated, anti scratch Sapphire crystals, bezel with 120 positions, a Stainless steel bracelet with micro adjustment (optional), hands, dial, bezel with BGw9 SuperLuminova, a chromed or golden polished handset, and a dial with chromed or golden markers.
DIMENSIONS are as follows: bezel diameter: 41mm, case diameter: 42mm, thickness with display case back and without crystal: 16.80mm, thickness with closed case back and without crystal: 18.80mm, thickness with double domed crystal and display case back: 19.20mm, thickness with spherical crystal and display case back: 27.25mm, Length: 57mm, thickness of the opt. spherical crystal: 15mm, thickness of the double domed crystal: 7mm, Sapphire crystal diameter: 31mm, dial diameter: 30mm, space between lugs: 22mm, crown diameter: 9mm
The HELBERG CH1 pricing and images of the bronze model will be announced here with the start of the pre-order period 07.02.2013! HELBERG expect delivery of the HELBERG CH1 in the Summer of 2013.
Wednesday, January 30, 2013
BREMONT SUPERMARINE 2000 2ndLook
By TLex BREMONT Have officially launched / released their new 'professional' divers model, the Supermarine 2000. The S2000 is based on the S500 and is very similar in its overall appearance.
However Bremont have have increased the case size from 43mm to 45mm and re-engineered it to withstand a water-resistance 2000m or 6560ft, which it proudly displays on its in red text on its dial at 6 o'clock.
The S2000 has also been fitted with a Helium Escape Valve, which is situated on the watch's left lateral side at 9 o'clock.
The caseback is engraved with a Supermarine Seaplane.
Further features include an anti-shock movement mount and a 'Faraday cage' (soft iron anti-magnetic case) to shield its chronometer-tested BE-36AE movement from any unwanted electromagnetic fields.
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However Bremont have have increased the case size from 43mm to 45mm and re-engineered it to withstand a water-resistance 2000m or 6560ft, which it proudly displays on its in red text on its dial at 6 o'clock.
The S2000 has also been fitted with a Helium Escape Valve, which is situated on the watch's left lateral side at 9 o'clock.
The caseback is engraved with a Supermarine Seaplane.
Further features include an anti-shock movement mount and a 'Faraday cage' (soft iron anti-magnetic case) to shield its chronometer-tested BE-36AE movement from any unwanted electromagnetic fields.
Tuesday, January 29, 2013
INVICTA Sea Hunter 300M
By TLex This leviathan of the deep is not for the faint of heart or wrist! With its imposing �58mm surgical grade solid Stainless case, carbon fiber dial with Tritnite� luminous indexes and hands, day and big date display, and 300 meters of water-resistance, the Invicta Sea Hunter makes a big and bold statement.
The watch has been on the market for a couple of years now, but is still one the most popular models of Invicta's eclectic collection of divers watches. The massive case is available in a number of finishes, which include Ionic gun metal plating and Ionic black plating.
Special features of the case include a 'Flame Fusion' crystal, a Stainless steel screw down exhibition case back with colored crystal, Stainless steel screw down crown and chrono pushers and a unidirectional bezel with polyurethane ring on outer edge. The bezel has a fantastic height to it, which means it would even be easy enough to manipulate with an oven glove - let alone a divers glove!
The Invicta Sea Hunter is powered by a professional Swiss quartz chronograph movement with big date. It presented on a black specially molded polyurethane strap with a Stainless steel buckle with Ionic gun metal plating, Ionic black plating. Follow the link HERE to discover the Sea Hunter plus Invicta's full divers collection on ShopNBC.com
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The watch has been on the market for a couple of years now, but is still one the most popular models of Invicta's eclectic collection of divers watches. The massive case is available in a number of finishes, which include Ionic gun metal plating and Ionic black plating.
Special features of the case include a 'Flame Fusion' crystal, a Stainless steel screw down exhibition case back with colored crystal, Stainless steel screw down crown and chrono pushers and a unidirectional bezel with polyurethane ring on outer edge. The bezel has a fantastic height to it, which means it would even be easy enough to manipulate with an oven glove - let alone a divers glove!
The Invicta Sea Hunter is powered by a professional Swiss quartz chronograph movement with big date. It presented on a black specially molded polyurethane strap with a Stainless steel buckle with Ionic gun metal plating, Ionic black plating. Follow the link HERE to discover the Sea Hunter plus Invicta's full divers collection on ShopNBC.com
Girard-Perregaux Sea HAWK mission of MERMAIDS
By TLex Once again [blue] Girard-Perregaux partner with Christies's Auction for a worthy environmental project aimed to raise public awareness of marine ecological protection. And once again [green] a Limited Edition Sea Hawk is presented for the �Protect What is Precious�cause. The watch is based on the new Sea Hawk released just last December.
Of the features unique to the Sea Hawk 'Mission of Mermaids' wristwatch designed in collaboration with Susan Rockefeller - is a special color theme in 'ocean blue' and 'forest green' - used for the hands, sub dial, power-reserve indicator and case back design. This already GP's 2nd special edition of their new Se Hawk - the other model being the FOReverglades LE. The color pallet won't be to everyone's taste - then again the watch isn't aimed at everyone anyway!
From GP Susan and David Rockefeller presented �Protect What is Precious�, an environmental forum and celebration in Beijing, in partnership with the iconic luxury Swiss watchmaker Girard-Perregaux and Christie�s Auction House. With an established history of philanthropic commitment to sustainability in culture and environment, Susan and David created this event to promote advocacy for global health and environmental and cultural stewardship.
Event panelists Susan and David Rockefeller, together with Chinese entrepreneur Mr. Ren Zhiqiang (one of the co-founders of Alashan Society of Entrepreneurs and Ecology) engaged in a roundtable discussion about the inter-connections between the arts, culture, the environment and the state of the human spirit, in an exchange of ideas on how to solve environmental issues such as ocean acidification, overfishing and pollution. The forum discussion was preceded by the screening of �Mission of Mermaids� a short film directed by Susan Rockefeller and aimed to raise public awareness of marine ecological protection.
�Together with Girard-Perregaux and Christie�s, we would like to address the preciousness of time,� said Susan Rockefeller, "Our time is limited in terms of the protection of our natural resources. My hope is that �Mission of Mermaids� and �Protect What is Precious� will inspire people to reflect on the importance of preserving our environment and protecting what they hold precious."
Following the panel discussion, Girard-Perregaux presented Susan and David Rockefeller with the limited edition Sea Hawk Mission of Mermaids wristwatch. This unique timepiece, designed in collaboration with Susan Rockefeller, is inspired by forest green and ocean blue embellishments on the dial, which complement the mysterious mermaid carving on the case back, embodying the wish for ocean protection. The event, which was hosted at Yuan Space Beijing, also featured a musical performance by Asian Cultural Council Grantee, Coco Zhao.
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Of the features unique to the Sea Hawk 'Mission of Mermaids' wristwatch designed in collaboration with Susan Rockefeller - is a special color theme in 'ocean blue' and 'forest green' - used for the hands, sub dial, power-reserve indicator and case back design. This already GP's 2nd special edition of their new Se Hawk - the other model being the FOReverglades LE. The color pallet won't be to everyone's taste - then again the watch isn't aimed at everyone anyway!
From GP Susan and David Rockefeller presented �Protect What is Precious�, an environmental forum and celebration in Beijing, in partnership with the iconic luxury Swiss watchmaker Girard-Perregaux and Christie�s Auction House. With an established history of philanthropic commitment to sustainability in culture and environment, Susan and David created this event to promote advocacy for global health and environmental and cultural stewardship.
Event panelists Susan and David Rockefeller, together with Chinese entrepreneur Mr. Ren Zhiqiang (one of the co-founders of Alashan Society of Entrepreneurs and Ecology) engaged in a roundtable discussion about the inter-connections between the arts, culture, the environment and the state of the human spirit, in an exchange of ideas on how to solve environmental issues such as ocean acidification, overfishing and pollution. The forum discussion was preceded by the screening of �Mission of Mermaids� a short film directed by Susan Rockefeller and aimed to raise public awareness of marine ecological protection.
�Together with Girard-Perregaux and Christie�s, we would like to address the preciousness of time,� said Susan Rockefeller, "Our time is limited in terms of the protection of our natural resources. My hope is that �Mission of Mermaids� and �Protect What is Precious� will inspire people to reflect on the importance of preserving our environment and protecting what they hold precious."
Following the panel discussion, Girard-Perregaux presented Susan and David Rockefeller with the limited edition Sea Hawk Mission of Mermaids wristwatch. This unique timepiece, designed in collaboration with Susan Rockefeller, is inspired by forest green and ocean blue embellishments on the dial, which complement the mysterious mermaid carving on the case back, embodying the wish for ocean protection. The event, which was hosted at Yuan Space Beijing, also featured a musical performance by Asian Cultural Council Grantee, Coco Zhao.
Sunday, January 27, 2013
AQUADIVE Bathyscaphe 300N DLC Review
BACKGROUND During the 60s and 70s, AQUADIVE were renowned for producing high-quality Swiss handcrafted dive watches, appreciated as much for their aesthetics as they were for their robustness and reliability. These iconic dive watches were not only essential diving instruments that professional divers depended upon for measuring dive-time, but also became great on-land companions.
Today with a combined experience of over 100 years in the watch industry, the people behind the Aquadive brand (re-launched in 2011) are a passionate and knowledgeable group of aficionados, collectors and watchmakers, who wish to remain true to their heritage whilst incorporating many of the great advances that have been made in the dive watch industry over the last few years. The Bathyscaphe 300N DLC beautifully illustrates this direction . . .
AESTHETIC A true modern-vintage divers watch; combining classic vintage looks with subtle modern tweaks. The barrel shaped case, un-guarded crown, and high sitting bezel with �piano key� teeth, the vintage dial and typically 70s looking white on black bezel markings will appeal enormously to those who have an appreciation of true vintage watches or retro styled reinterpretations -
whilst the DLC coating, ceramic bezel insert, subtly integrated HEV (nestled neatly between the lugs) and re-engineered ISOfrane rubber divers strap will catch the attention of those that demand the very latest in divers watch technologies. The watch exudes quality whilst maintaining a robust and masculine feel.
DIAL The BS 300N has a black galvanized dial with applied baton and trapezoid shaped (3, 6, 9 and 12) SuperLuminova markers. The second markers and text are printed in white. There�s the �Aquadive� name and logo on the top half of the dial, then there are three rows of text with the �Bathyscaphe 300� name and some specification on the bottom half.
The text is really small and as such is fairly unobtrusive, but if you have poor eyesight, it might become a little blurry! To be honest I�m not a huge fan of printing spec. on dials, it�s a little redundant, but if it's there it should be at least legible. Regardless, the overall dial execution is very crisp - everything is nicely balanced, too. The date window at 3 o�clock is in black (just as should be).
HANDS The hands of the BS 300N recall those used by the �Model 50� from the 70s, only with a bit of modernization. They are partially skeletonized with SuperLuminova running through their middle. The minute hand is in orange and chrome whereas the hour hand is fully chromed. The second hand has a square-shaped pointer in red. It is also applied with lume.
LUME The hands, dial markers and bezel pip are applied with C3 SuperLuminova. The lume is nice and bright - not blinding, but more than acceptable. The lume color is green - however I would have preferred either BGW9 (blue), which would make the dial markers nice and white or either vintage-orange to play off all the black. The green is fine, it's just not exciting. I would rate the lume at 'good'.
CASE The Bathyscpahe 300N uses the exact same case that was used for the Aquadive �Model 50� Depth Gauge of the 1970s. It is 1/1 reproduction with identical dimensions: 47mm (diameter) x 53mm (lug to lug) x 20mm (height). It has been CNC milled from solid block of Stainless steel.
The �barrel� shaped case was fairly typical of dive watches of that era, differing only in that it was probably a lot more substantial than a typical divers wristwatch of the its day as it was designed to accommodate a depth gauge mechanism. If we take a look at the case side, there is a gentle curve. The top of the case sides have been beveled and polished, highlighting the lovely barrel shape.
DLC The BS 300N�s DLC (diamond like carbon) coating was carried out by reportedly the best and most experienced coating facility in Switzerland. In terms of quality it is probably the best I have seen. There are numerous types of DLC treatments with differing hardness and color. The BS 300N�s DLC coating is a dark charcoal color, unlike some coatings; the brushed and polished surfaces of the watch case are clearly visible despite the DLC treatment.
BEZEL The BS 300N features a 45mm Stainless steel 120-click type, uni-directional rotational divers bezel with a scratch-resistant Ceramic insert, engraved with an elapsed dive-time scale. The bezel markings are very cool, they reflect the watch�s 70s heritage however some might find them a little crowed. I would have preferred a slightly more clearly defined space between the band of white on the dive-time scale and its white 5-minute markers, as they are, they�re a little too closely squashed together.
The bezel has been milled on a CNC machine rather stamped as many bezels are. Each of its �piano key� teeth have been individually cut and then polished by hand. The bezel is absolutely spot-on in terms of stability and movement. The clicks are clearly distinguished and with a satisfying clicking sound that comes from the laser-cut ratcheting spring.
CROWN The BS 300N has multi-sealed, spring-loaded (you can clearly see the spring), screw-down crown. Its design echoes that of the bezel teeth. It measures 7mm in diameter and has been signed with the �Aquadive� logo. Because the crown is unhindered by a crown guard it is particularly easy to manipulate. The stem is rock-solid making winding, setting of the time and opening and closing simple and reassuring. The crown would certainly benefit from an extra mm or so in diameter.
HEV The HEV or �Helium Escape Valve� has become a ubiquitous feature of the modern day professional divers watch. Though it is not really a feature that many scuba divers will ever use, as only deep sea SAT divers are required to decompress in helium decompression tanks. However boys being boys, we all want one � just in case! ;)
I like Aquadive�s answer to this, rather than just plonking one on the side of case � la Rolex, they�ve opted for a stealthier placement between the lower lugs at 6 o�clock thus un-interrupting the beautifully brushed 70s vintage case side. Either that or they were just trying to be different, which don't believe they were.
CASEBACK The solid steel caseback is a screwdown type with two rows of laser engraved text running round its perimeter and a large �Aquadive� engraved logo in the center. Again the caseback has been CNC machined not stamped. Otherwise the caseback is fairly unremarkable.
CRYSTAL The BS 300N has 5mm thick flat Sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating on its inside. I am aware that the double domed or highly domed Sapphire crystals are very much in vogue these days, but the flat crystal gives the BS 300 a clean look that suits it well. I�m not saying that a domed crystal wouldn�t work too or would even be any less appealing, but in this case it wasn�t a necessary enhancement.
WATER-resistance The BS 300 has a water-resistance of 3000 meters or 10000 feet making it one of only a handful of Swiss made mechanical wrist watches with such a high water-resistance. However it was in fact tested to a depth of 5000 meters! Unlike other extreme divers, the BS 300 isn�t all about its depth rating � it�s kind of incidental, which I find pretty cool. Follow the link HERE to see details on the BS 300�s pressure testing.
MOVEMENT The BS300N is powered by the reliable workhorse that is the Swiss made ETA 2824-2 self-winding caliber with 25 jewel, Incabloc shock protection system, tested and regulated in 3 (�N� series is not 5) positions. The movement is shielded by a soft iron anti-magnetic casing. Please note that the �N� series watches do not come with test certificates.
STRAP / BUCKLE The BS 300 comes on a genuine 24mm ISOfrane black rubber divers strap with a solid CNC machined Stainless steel signed �AQUADIVE� buckle. The strap is soft and comfortable to wear. ISOfrane rubber divers straps are among the very best that there are currently on the market in terms of comfort and durability. Follow the link HERE to read my in-depth ISOfrane strap review.
LUG PINS Yep, unfortunately the watch uses lug-pins not screws. This would have been an obvious update. The only reasoning behind not using screwed lugs would be that Aquadive perhaps didn't want to interrupt the beautiful case lines - possibly the same reason that the HEV was placed between the lugs? The pins aren't very secure - I could pull them out and pop them back again without the need for a tool - convenient yes, but not that secure.
BUILD Aquadive have successfully combined modern German case making technology with handmade Swiss craftsmanship to create a watch that has been beautifully built and finely finished. Aquadive don�t use any �off-the-shelf� parts either. Each and every component of the BS 300N has first been prototyped (at great time and expense) and then CNC milled in Germany from a solid block of high-grade Stainless steel.
Everything on the BS 300N has been executed exceptionally well. No major flaws are visible to the naked eye despite being made using traditional old-world watch making methods. The case and bezel finishing is fantastic, the DLC treatment is top-notch!
ON THE WRIST The most noticeable trait of the the BS 300 is its height or at least its perceived height. It isn't actually that high. It does seem to tower up from you wrist, though. There's no getting past that. It's a large watch, and that is much of its appeal. If that concerns you then the BS 100N DLC might be a better choice. You get the same look only smaller and lighter.
VALUE The BS �N� series watches have made a few minor economy cuts by using painted on dial markers instead appliqu� chromed markers and by adjusting the movement to 3 positions rather than 5, also they lack a movement test certificate. But this makes a substantial saving of 600USD making the watch all the more obtainable.
The BS 300N DLC is sold online by Aquadive for 2390USD (inc. shipping). If we consider the watch�s superb heritage, the fact that all of its components were CNC machined in Germany and that its dial hands, movement etc. are all genuine Swiss made components � at its price point it�s going to be pretty hard to beat. The only thing to note here, is that a bracelet is not included. Still, it�s a hell of lot of watch for under 2.5 grand.
COMPARE The BS 300 really is its own thing. Sure there are a number divers with similar spec. but none with the same kind of heritage and spec. combined, and at such a reasonable price. The closet that comes to mind would be the Delma Santiago BlueShark 3000m, which although is a modern design does have some vintage touches. Its MSRP is 1'840CHF - approx. 1980USD.
If you've got twice the budget (4099USD) and are looking for a something equally imposing, you might take a look at the new Ball Engineer hydrocarbon DeepQUEST. Like the BS 300N both are Swiss made autos with 3000m of WR.
� OceanicTime
OVERALL r a t i n g / 5
A unique and appealing design with true dive watch heritage dating back to the 1970s combined with the very latest in divers watch technologies. The Bathyscaphe 300N DLC offers the very best of both worlds! At a glance the watch recalls its past with its case made using an exact reproduction of a 1970s depth gauge.
However, if you look a little closer, you'll see that this 70s watch case has been cleverly adapted into a modern tool watch incorporating tough, cutting-edge materials such as DLC and Ceramic and with a very high level of water-resistance to boot. It's not a quite a Ploprof killer, but it is fantastic dive watch nevertheless and one that every true dive watch aficionado should have in their collection.
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Today with a combined experience of over 100 years in the watch industry, the people behind the Aquadive brand (re-launched in 2011) are a passionate and knowledgeable group of aficionados, collectors and watchmakers, who wish to remain true to their heritage whilst incorporating many of the great advances that have been made in the dive watch industry over the last few years. The Bathyscaphe 300N DLC beautifully illustrates this direction . . .
AESTHETIC A true modern-vintage divers watch; combining classic vintage looks with subtle modern tweaks. The barrel shaped case, un-guarded crown, and high sitting bezel with �piano key� teeth, the vintage dial and typically 70s looking white on black bezel markings will appeal enormously to those who have an appreciation of true vintage watches or retro styled reinterpretations -
whilst the DLC coating, ceramic bezel insert, subtly integrated HEV (nestled neatly between the lugs) and re-engineered ISOfrane rubber divers strap will catch the attention of those that demand the very latest in divers watch technologies. The watch exudes quality whilst maintaining a robust and masculine feel.
DIAL The BS 300N has a black galvanized dial with applied baton and trapezoid shaped (3, 6, 9 and 12) SuperLuminova markers. The second markers and text are printed in white. There�s the �Aquadive� name and logo on the top half of the dial, then there are three rows of text with the �Bathyscaphe 300� name and some specification on the bottom half.
The text is really small and as such is fairly unobtrusive, but if you have poor eyesight, it might become a little blurry! To be honest I�m not a huge fan of printing spec. on dials, it�s a little redundant, but if it's there it should be at least legible. Regardless, the overall dial execution is very crisp - everything is nicely balanced, too. The date window at 3 o�clock is in black (just as should be).
HANDS The hands of the BS 300N recall those used by the �Model 50� from the 70s, only with a bit of modernization. They are partially skeletonized with SuperLuminova running through their middle. The minute hand is in orange and chrome whereas the hour hand is fully chromed. The second hand has a square-shaped pointer in red. It is also applied with lume.
LUME The hands, dial markers and bezel pip are applied with C3 SuperLuminova. The lume is nice and bright - not blinding, but more than acceptable. The lume color is green - however I would have preferred either BGW9 (blue), which would make the dial markers nice and white or either vintage-orange to play off all the black. The green is fine, it's just not exciting. I would rate the lume at 'good'.
CASE The Bathyscpahe 300N uses the exact same case that was used for the Aquadive �Model 50� Depth Gauge of the 1970s. It is 1/1 reproduction with identical dimensions: 47mm (diameter) x 53mm (lug to lug) x 20mm (height). It has been CNC milled from solid block of Stainless steel.
The �barrel� shaped case was fairly typical of dive watches of that era, differing only in that it was probably a lot more substantial than a typical divers wristwatch of the its day as it was designed to accommodate a depth gauge mechanism. If we take a look at the case side, there is a gentle curve. The top of the case sides have been beveled and polished, highlighting the lovely barrel shape.
DLC The BS 300N�s DLC (diamond like carbon) coating was carried out by reportedly the best and most experienced coating facility in Switzerland. In terms of quality it is probably the best I have seen. There are numerous types of DLC treatments with differing hardness and color. The BS 300N�s DLC coating is a dark charcoal color, unlike some coatings; the brushed and polished surfaces of the watch case are clearly visible despite the DLC treatment.
BEZEL The BS 300N features a 45mm Stainless steel 120-click type, uni-directional rotational divers bezel with a scratch-resistant Ceramic insert, engraved with an elapsed dive-time scale. The bezel markings are very cool, they reflect the watch�s 70s heritage however some might find them a little crowed. I would have preferred a slightly more clearly defined space between the band of white on the dive-time scale and its white 5-minute markers, as they are, they�re a little too closely squashed together.
The bezel has been milled on a CNC machine rather stamped as many bezels are. Each of its �piano key� teeth have been individually cut and then polished by hand. The bezel is absolutely spot-on in terms of stability and movement. The clicks are clearly distinguished and with a satisfying clicking sound that comes from the laser-cut ratcheting spring.
CROWN The BS 300N has multi-sealed, spring-loaded (you can clearly see the spring), screw-down crown. Its design echoes that of the bezel teeth. It measures 7mm in diameter and has been signed with the �Aquadive� logo. Because the crown is unhindered by a crown guard it is particularly easy to manipulate. The stem is rock-solid making winding, setting of the time and opening and closing simple and reassuring. The crown would certainly benefit from an extra mm or so in diameter.
HEV The HEV or �Helium Escape Valve� has become a ubiquitous feature of the modern day professional divers watch. Though it is not really a feature that many scuba divers will ever use, as only deep sea SAT divers are required to decompress in helium decompression tanks. However boys being boys, we all want one � just in case! ;)
I like Aquadive�s answer to this, rather than just plonking one on the side of case � la Rolex, they�ve opted for a stealthier placement between the lower lugs at 6 o�clock thus un-interrupting the beautifully brushed 70s vintage case side. Either that or they were just trying to be different, which don't believe they were.
CASEBACK The solid steel caseback is a screwdown type with two rows of laser engraved text running round its perimeter and a large �Aquadive� engraved logo in the center. Again the caseback has been CNC machined not stamped. Otherwise the caseback is fairly unremarkable.
CRYSTAL The BS 300N has 5mm thick flat Sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating on its inside. I am aware that the double domed or highly domed Sapphire crystals are very much in vogue these days, but the flat crystal gives the BS 300 a clean look that suits it well. I�m not saying that a domed crystal wouldn�t work too or would even be any less appealing, but in this case it wasn�t a necessary enhancement.
WATER-resistance The BS 300 has a water-resistance of 3000 meters or 10000 feet making it one of only a handful of Swiss made mechanical wrist watches with such a high water-resistance. However it was in fact tested to a depth of 5000 meters! Unlike other extreme divers, the BS 300 isn�t all about its depth rating � it�s kind of incidental, which I find pretty cool. Follow the link HERE to see details on the BS 300�s pressure testing.
MOVEMENT The BS300N is powered by the reliable workhorse that is the Swiss made ETA 2824-2 self-winding caliber with 25 jewel, Incabloc shock protection system, tested and regulated in 3 (�N� series is not 5) positions. The movement is shielded by a soft iron anti-magnetic casing. Please note that the �N� series watches do not come with test certificates.
STRAP / BUCKLE The BS 300 comes on a genuine 24mm ISOfrane black rubber divers strap with a solid CNC machined Stainless steel signed �AQUADIVE� buckle. The strap is soft and comfortable to wear. ISOfrane rubber divers straps are among the very best that there are currently on the market in terms of comfort and durability. Follow the link HERE to read my in-depth ISOfrane strap review.
LUG PINS Yep, unfortunately the watch uses lug-pins not screws. This would have been an obvious update. The only reasoning behind not using screwed lugs would be that Aquadive perhaps didn't want to interrupt the beautiful case lines - possibly the same reason that the HEV was placed between the lugs? The pins aren't very secure - I could pull them out and pop them back again without the need for a tool - convenient yes, but not that secure.
BUILD Aquadive have successfully combined modern German case making technology with handmade Swiss craftsmanship to create a watch that has been beautifully built and finely finished. Aquadive don�t use any �off-the-shelf� parts either. Each and every component of the BS 300N has first been prototyped (at great time and expense) and then CNC milled in Germany from a solid block of high-grade Stainless steel.
Everything on the BS 300N has been executed exceptionally well. No major flaws are visible to the naked eye despite being made using traditional old-world watch making methods. The case and bezel finishing is fantastic, the DLC treatment is top-notch!
ON THE WRIST The most noticeable trait of the the BS 300 is its height or at least its perceived height. It isn't actually that high. It does seem to tower up from you wrist, though. There's no getting past that. It's a large watch, and that is much of its appeal. If that concerns you then the BS 100N DLC might be a better choice. You get the same look only smaller and lighter.
VALUE The BS �N� series watches have made a few minor economy cuts by using painted on dial markers instead appliqu� chromed markers and by adjusting the movement to 3 positions rather than 5, also they lack a movement test certificate. But this makes a substantial saving of 600USD making the watch all the more obtainable.
The BS 300N DLC is sold online by Aquadive for 2390USD (inc. shipping). If we consider the watch�s superb heritage, the fact that all of its components were CNC machined in Germany and that its dial hands, movement etc. are all genuine Swiss made components � at its price point it�s going to be pretty hard to beat. The only thing to note here, is that a bracelet is not included. Still, it�s a hell of lot of watch for under 2.5 grand.
COMPARE The BS 300 really is its own thing. Sure there are a number divers with similar spec. but none with the same kind of heritage and spec. combined, and at such a reasonable price. The closet that comes to mind would be the Delma Santiago BlueShark 3000m, which although is a modern design does have some vintage touches. Its MSRP is 1'840CHF - approx. 1980USD.
If you've got twice the budget (4099USD) and are looking for a something equally imposing, you might take a look at the new Ball Engineer hydrocarbon DeepQUEST. Like the BS 300N both are Swiss made autos with 3000m of WR.
� OceanicTime
OVERALL r a t i n g / 5
A unique and appealing design with true dive watch heritage dating back to the 1970s combined with the very latest in divers watch technologies. The Bathyscaphe 300N DLC offers the very best of both worlds! At a glance the watch recalls its past with its case made using an exact reproduction of a 1970s depth gauge.
However, if you look a little closer, you'll see that this 70s watch case has been cleverly adapted into a modern tool watch incorporating tough, cutting-edge materials such as DLC and Ceramic and with a very high level of water-resistance to boot. It's not a quite a Ploprof killer, but it is fantastic dive watch nevertheless and one that every true dive watch aficionado should have in their collection.
T�a�c�t�i�c�o Type RE
By TLex Introducing the T�a�c�t�i�c�o Type RE, the latest project from Crepas Watches' military division, also responsible for the TC1 and TC2. The Type RE, however is not the TC3 that will hopefully come in the following weeks or months.
The Type RE is a collaborative effort between Crepas and a group of 'die hard' watch aficionados and collectors from Spain's largest and highest trafficked watch forum, Relojes Especiales. Hence the name 'RE' the first two letters of the forum's name. This is their 2nd collaborative project after 'El Buzzo'.
This very special 'Flight' Chronograph watch draws upon a number influences, both vintage and contemporary it has been designed with the input from the 'RE' forum members and overseen and executed by Crepas.
Crepas, BTW have only just recently released their 3rd model, the cayman 3000. The Type RE is packed with details, each of them carefully and tastefully chosen. I particularly like the 'Top Gun' style caseback engraving (see bottom) - very cool!
Specifications are as follows: 316L Stainless steel case with brushed, polished and sandblasted finishes, custom Sapphire crystal, divers bezel with coin-edging and choice of three inserts (aluminum, Sapphire or steel), a screwdown - caseback, crown and chrono pushers, an Swiss made ETAsa 7753 chronograph movement and 200meters of water-resistance.
The T�a�c�t�i�c�o Type RE is not being sold by Crepas Watches it is only available through Relojes Especiales. Interested parties should contact them directly.
Read More
The Type RE is a collaborative effort between Crepas and a group of 'die hard' watch aficionados and collectors from Spain's largest and highest trafficked watch forum, Relojes Especiales. Hence the name 'RE' the first two letters of the forum's name. This is their 2nd collaborative project after 'El Buzzo'.
This very special 'Flight' Chronograph watch draws upon a number influences, both vintage and contemporary it has been designed with the input from the 'RE' forum members and overseen and executed by Crepas.
Crepas, BTW have only just recently released their 3rd model, the cayman 3000. The Type RE is packed with details, each of them carefully and tastefully chosen. I particularly like the 'Top Gun' style caseback engraving (see bottom) - very cool!
Specifications are as follows: 316L Stainless steel case with brushed, polished and sandblasted finishes, custom Sapphire crystal, divers bezel with coin-edging and choice of three inserts (aluminum, Sapphire or steel), a screwdown - caseback, crown and chrono pushers, an Swiss made ETAsa 7753 chronograph movement and 200meters of water-resistance.
The T�a�c�t�i�c�o Type RE is not being sold by Crepas Watches it is only available through Relojes Especiales. Interested parties should contact them directly.
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