Monday, April 11, 2011

BREITLING Chronomat GMT

By TLex There was a huge buzz when Breitling unveiled their first in-house calibre, the B01, which was housed in the Chronomat 01, a high-end sports model of Breitling's Windrider line. Whilst not really a diver per se, the Chronomat 01 still had a 500m depth rating and a unidirectional rotatable divers bezel.

The B01 has experienced high praise in the media, the German watch publication, Uhren Magazin gave it their top score of 6 out of 6. Breitling then in August of 2009 released one of
the first ever Wristwatch Apps for the iPhone, which they created for the Chronomat 01. Last October the Chronomat 01 Limited Edition was released and for Baselworld this year the Chronomat GMT housing the B04 was duly unveiled.



THE AUTHENTIC TRAVEL CHRONOGRAPH Adjusting instantly to the time and date of the place of arrival, while maintaining a 24-hour home-time display and without losing any precision in counting the minutes, must be every traveler�s dream. A dream now come true with the new Chronomat GMT, a travel watch from Breitling boasting unprecedented user friendliness. The wearer need only pull out the crown and turn it forwards or backwards to move between timezones in an outstandingly simple manner.

Equipped with the new Breitling Caliber 04, entirely developed and produced within the company workshops, the Chronomat GMT is one of the rare chronographs to offer such a smoothly functional dual timezone system. With its exclusive design and its dial featuring subtle three-dimensional effects, it is the new benchmark for all those who want to experience high performances in all parts of the world.




AN INNOVATE MECHANISM From the famous world-time Unitime, the star of the 1950s, to the current Navitimer World models with dual timezone display, travel watches have always had a special place in the Breitling collections. A natural vocation for the favorite pilots� brand that became �official supplier to world aviation�. Today, Breitling is returning to the forefront in this field by unveiling a new instrument distinguished by its smart and convivial operating mode.

To ensure peerless user friendliness, the firm�s watchmakers and engineers have developed a differential system � for which a patent has been duly filed � serving to disconnect the local hour hand from the gear train when changing timezone. This operation thus has no effect on the precision of the watch, nor on the performances of the chronograph.




A HIGH-PERFORMANCE CHRONOGRAPH The fact that the Chronomat GMT is such an exceptional instrument is also because it combines this extremely practical dual timezone system with a chronograph � and not just any chronograph. The brand-new Breitling Caliber 04 developed for this model is indeed derived from Breitling Caliber 01, the sturdiest, most reliable and most high-performance of all selfwinding chronograph movements, entirely designed and produced within the company workshops. It features the same original architecture and the same cutting-edge characteristics, including a column wheel, a vertical coupling clutch guaranteeing high-precision activation, and an over 70-hour power reserve � along with various innovative special characteristics such as the patented recentering device for the zero-resetting hammers.

Designed to provide maximum operational functionality and security, Caliber 04 is manufactured using a high-tech production-chain system revolutionizing traditional movement assembly processes. Breitling thereby guarantees the authentic reliability of its �instruments for professionals� on a large scale. As is the case for all the brand�s movements, this highperformance �engine� is chronometer-certified by the COSC (Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute), the highest token of precision.



A POWERFUL STYLE The new Chronomat GMT is based on the powerful, unique and quintessential design of Breitling�s leading model, with its imposing steel case featuring ultra-sturdy construction and water-resistant to 500 meters (1,650 ft), as well as its unidirectional rotating bezel engraved with exclusive numerals. However, its dial available in six colors with tone-on-tone or contrasting totalizers has been redesigned to give it a personality all its own. The applied hour-markers are fitted with highly original bases, inspired by Roman numerals.

This refined detail accentuates the square shape of the central gridwork-patterned central zone that stands out in subtle ways depending on how it catches the light. The triangular openworked red-tipped hand points to home time on a 24-hour graduated scale partially covered by the inner bezel � thereby giving the dial even more life and depth by playing on the third dimension.


The home-time hands and hour-markers are enhanced by a luminescent coating guaranteeing excellent readability by day and night. Entirely made in Switzerland and treated to extremely meticulous finishing, the Chronomat GMT may be teamed with a choice of various straps and bracelets offering a variety of styles and uses: the classic touch of Barenia or crocodile leather, the sporty spirit of rubber straps, and the sturdy masculine nature of the steel Pilot bracelet. A whole world of elegance and performance for the authentic travel chronograph.



PEERLESS FUNCTIONALITY The new Chronomat GMT is equipped with two central hour hands. The first matches the minute hand and runs over a 12-hour scale, while the second is tipped with a red triangle and runs in 24-hour mode. When the user is in his home country, the two hour hands move in a perfectly synchronized manner.



CHANGING TIMEZONE To adjust the 12-hour hand to local time, the user simply pulls the crown out to position 2 and turns it in either direction by the number of notches corresponding to the number of hours composing the time difference. The date display is indexed to this 12-hour hand and changes automatically if required, both backwards or forwards.

The red-tipped hand keeps track of home time on a 24-hour basis, thus enabling one to distinguish between day and night and avoiding the risk of waking family members, friends or business contacts by phoning them when they are sound asleep. And if the traveler makes stopovers in several different timezones, he need only repeat the same operation on each occasion and then, upon returning home, reset the two hands to the same time. It�s hard to imagine anything simpler!




MOVEMENT Breitling Caliber 04, officially chronometer-certified by the COSC, selfwinding, high-frequency (28,800 vibrations per hour), 47 jewels. Over 70-hour power reserve. 24-hour 2nd timezone display. 1/4th of a second chronograph, 30-minute and 12-hour totalizers. Calendar.

CASE Steel. Water-resistant to 500 m (1,650 ft/ 50 bars). Screw-locked crown and pushpieces. Unidirectional ratcheted rotating bezel. Cambered sapphire crystal, glareproofed on both sides. Diameter: 47 mm.

DIALS Onyx Black, Metallica Blue, Blackeye Blue, Blackeye Gray, Sierra Silver, Metallica Brown.

STRAPS /BRACELET Barenia leather, crocodile leather, rubber Ocean Racer (perforated), rubber Diver Pro (with raised central ridge)/ Pilot.

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Friday, April 8, 2011

Girard-Perregaux SEA HAWK 1'000m

From GP Girard-Perregaux presents a new interpretation of the Sea Hawk Pro 1,000M. Immediately recognizable, its luminescent orange minute hand strengthens the inimitable style of this robust diving watch.



The name "Sea Hawk" has been used by Girard-Perregaux since the 1940s to designate models designed for use in extreme conditions. In spite of the significant evolutions and developments of the Brand in the field of diving watches, the collection's current design was conceived in 2002. Its style is characterised by generously-sized cases and a crown at 4 o'clock which is protected by an original, ergonomic crown shield.

The latest creation in the Sea Hawk Pro 1,000M range features a display on which its functions stand out clearly on a matt black dial. The bright orange touches on the minute and small second hands and on the power reserve indicator add dynamism to this bold diving watch, ensuring optimal readability of the dial even in murky conditions.



State-of-the-art technology and watchmaking expertise guarantee superb performance, including water resistance down to 1,000 metres to comply with standard ISO 6425 relating to diving watches. The GP033R0 movement with automatic winding and the case have been entirely developed and produced by the Manufacture. The case is equipped with a screwed crown, a unidirectional rotating bezel in steel to enable the dive time to be monitored, and a helium valve allowing decompression of the watch after deep dives.



The screwed case-back of this sporty, technical watch is adorned with engraving work symbolic of the Brand. The porpoise, anchor and trident of the engraving are a reference to a Girard-Perregaux patent which dates from the end of the 19th century, and at the time were accompanied by the inscription "Do nothing without advice".

The Sea Hawk Pro 1,000M is available with a rubber strap featuring a folding safety clasp. Its extension system allows the strap to be easily adjusted in order to compensate for differences in temperature or to enable the watch to be worn over a drysuit.




Steel case
Diameter: 44 mm
Crystal: sapphire
Helium decompression valve
Case-back and crown: screwed
Water resistance: 100 ATM
Girard-Perregaux Movement GP033R0 mechanical with automatic winding
Calibre: 11 ����

Frequency: 28,800 vibrations/hour (4 Hz)
Jewels: 27
Power reserve: minimum 46 hours
Functions: hour, minute, small second, power reserve indicator, date
Rubber strap
Safety folding clasp with extension system

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RICHARD MILLE RM 028 DIVER Dubail LE

From RM To celebrate Richard Mille's close collaboration with Dubail, a long established fine watch retailer in Paris, the watchmaker has designed a limited edition timepiece, the RM 028 Dubail.




Dubail is renowned for selecting exclusive watches for their clients who will now have access to the Richard Mille limited edition automatic divers watch. Twenty watches will have a titanium case with a DLC black treatment and an extra seven pieces will be available in red gold. All limited edition models have a unique dial which is engraved with Dubail�s prestigious name.




The RM 028 boasts an automatic-winding skeleton movement with an integrated variable geometry rotor, an exclusive Richard Mille concept which allows the automatic winding to adapt to the wearer�s activity. The round case of the RM 028 conceals a considerable amount of technical achievements. Indeed only this shape guarantees water resistance of 300 meters (30 ATM). This is achieved with a tripartite case construction, torque screws, and complete integration of the lugs into the case system.



The RM 028 Dubail Limited Edition is exclusively available from Dubail, one of the most highly renowned watch boutiques in France, who have been dedicated to the most fascinating art of watch making for the last 35 years.



* Skeletonized automatic winding movement

* Diameter: 47.00 mm x 14.60 mm


* Rotor with variable geometry


* Power reserve: circa 55 hours


* Water resistant to 300 meters


* Barrel arbor � in 20AP steel


* Balance: Glucydur, 4 arms, inertia moment 4.8 mg.cm2, angle of lift 53�


* Frequency: 28,800 vph (4 Hz)


* Balance spring: ELINVAR


* Shock protection: INCABLOC 908.22.211.100 (transparent)


* Escapement wheel jewels: Rubifix (transparent)


* Stem with three positions: manual winding, time setting, date adjustment


* Limited edition of 20 pieces in DLC, 7 pieces available in red gold


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RICHARD MILLE RM 032 DIVER Chrono

From RM This newest Richard Mille creation is designed for the great depths of the oceans. The RM 032 offers a wide range of functions. The RM 032 offers hours, minutes, seconds, 60-minute countdown, 12-hour totalizer and flyback chronograph functions, combined with an annual calendar sporting an versized date at 12 o'clock and a month indicator (with numbers from 1 to 12) between 4 and 5 o'clock.

The power reserve is circa 50 hours, 45h with chronograph running. The digits for the date indicator are composed of two discs, with the digits cut out like positive stencils, offering great visual clarity combined with style. The annual calendar allows for the date change to be automatically calculated for months of 30 and 31 days; the only exception being the month of February.




The caliber RMAC2 is protected by a large case measuring 50.00 mm x 17.80 mm, with water resistance of 300 meters (30 atmospheres) and a unidirectional turning bezel following ISO 6425 norms that prevents miscalculations whilst diving. Assembled by three layers connected with 22 screws, the bezel and system attaching it to the watch-case makes it totally stable as well as impossible to inadvertently dislocate or loosen. The bezel rotates unidirectionaly in line with the norm ISO 6425, this avoids all mistakes when calculating diving time. For clearer visibility under murky conditions, at 12 o�clock onwards, the minute markers of the first quarter are highlighted in red. All of these details mark the RM 032 as a tool ready to confront the most extreme conditions.

The RM 032 also possesses a running indicator, located at 3 o�clock. Thanks to both its geometry and 2-rpm rotational frequency, it is possible to check the correct functioning of the running movement under stressful conditions. The running indicator disc is composed of successive Superluminova and black sectors; as a result it can be easily read during day or night.




The skeletonized automatic movement of the RM 032 utilizes Richard Mille�s patented system of automatic rotor with variable geometry, a major innovation that allows the level of automatic winding to be adjusted to the user�s lifestyle via the setting of two 18k white gold rotor ribs. The caliber RMAC2, with 62 jewels and beating at 4Hz, has a free sprung balance with variable inertia. This type of balance wheel represents the ultimate in innovation. It guarantees greater reliability when subjected to shock and also during movement assembly and disassembly, hence better chronometric results over time. The regulator index is eliminated and a more accurate and repeatable adjustment is possible thanks to 4 adjustable small weights located directly on the balance.

In the world of horology, the case of the RM 032 is currently considered as one of the most difficult one to manufacture. After a 1h30-hour turning phase, this tripartite case has to undergo 830 operations planned during an 9-hour milling phase. At the end of a 11-hour machining phase, each RM 032 case has to pass a 1-hour quality control.



The pushers, their respective components and crown require a 10-day machining phase. During this period numerous water resistant tests and quality controls are carried out as well as the hand brushing and polishing of the case. All of these steps are paramount to obtain the specific ergonomic levels associated with Richard Mille watches.

The RM 032 is water resistant to 300 meters (30 atmospheres), following ISO 6425 diver�s watch norms. This is achieved with a unique, curved, tripartite case design. It is complemented by a screwed crown construction and integration of the horns in the case. The horns of each RM 032 have screws designed to optimally fix the diver's rubber strap.



During deep sea dives, the water pressure on the pushers and crown is powerful enough to unintentionally operate one of the pushers, eg. the 'start' pusher of the chronograph. In order to avoid any external pressure effect or accidental manipulation, Richard Mille has developed a locking crown for the RM 032 that locks the pushers and as a result ensures a perfect water resistance up to 300 meters. The crown and pushers of the RM 032 can be locked by simply rotating its ring (green index if unlocked, red index if locked). The movement is also protected from being damaged from overpressure or shocks on the crown. The water resistance is enhanced thanks to maximum seal pressure.

This innovative and extremely technical system is specific to the RM 032 and is patent pending. The RM 032, with its chronograph and date functions enclosed in a highly water resistant and tough case/bezel design, is a new multi-talented horological realization.

Thanks to Richard Mille's innovative design and manufacturing, the RM 032 combines the practical features of timekeeping on land along with the exotic and harsh environmental conditions experienced by deep sea divers.

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ROMAIN JEROME Octopus 888FT [Titanic-DNA]



OCTOPUS The eight arms of a new chapter in the contemporary Legends saga. What was lacking for explorers of the Titanic-DNA collection? A diver�s watch capable of safely accompanying them into the depths of time! Such is the mission assigned to the new line code-named Octopus � seven letters extending the spirit of the Titanic-DNA legend and embodying the signature design features of a new style imposed on contemporary watchmaking by RJ-Romain Jerome.



This is the very first diver�s watch conceived by RJ-Romain Jerome. CEO Manuel Emch wanted it to be different in terms of both its aesthetic expression and its technical execution. It carries the large X-shaped intersection found on dials in the RJ-Romain Jerome collections. It also features the oxidised and stabilised metal concept that created such a shock wave in the watch industry by breaking the watchmaking taboo on rust and has now become an integral part of RJ-Romain Jerome's pioneering identity.



A diver's instrument must of course be both highly legible and functional. Superluminova enhanced to create a vivid contrast on the under side of the sapphire crystal, the minutes turning in step with the rotation of the bezel and serving a vital role in timing decompression stages, stand out clearly against the dark dial background.

The standard watch minutes are engraved on the inner bezel ring, with blue emission Superluminova-treated markers. The hour and minute hands are also luminescent, while the seconds hand is tipped by an easily readable dot in Superluminova. Like all professional diver�s watches, the Octopus is driven by a self-winding movement.




The Octopus, named after the ocean giant that became a powerful symbol in Jules Verne's famous novel Twenty Thousand Leagues under the Sea, is first and foremost a sports watch and a genuine diver�s model : it is equipped with an exclusive unidirectional rotating bezel system held by four external pawls, thus enabling the Octopus to maintain the four signature "paws" of RJ-Romain Jerome cases, while remaining perfectly suited for diving.

A small amount of oxidised and stabilised steel from the Titanic � another maritime giant � has been incorporated into the notched bezel. The crown with its eight rivets is naturally screw-locked, since this model is prepared to venture to depths of 888 feet (270 m).




The Octopus boasts lines that are virile and expressive, but never brutal, in harmony with the RJ-Romain Jerome design codes, including the rough yet non-aggressive dial with its carefully satin-brushed traverse struts. The rugged appearance of the Octopus style makes a striking contrast with the meticulous watchmaking care devoted to each detail of the finishing and to the refined red gold accents on certain models.

The RJ logo stands out in 3D. Eight 8-sided screws serve to secure the case and strap - which echoes the shape of the 'suction cups' found on the tentacles of an octopus ; and eight other screws are featured the back of the 46 mm case, engraved with an Octopus which thereby becomes the symbol of the conquest of great depths successfully undertaken by RJ-Romain Jerome.




Destined to become a future pillar of the RJ-Romain Jerome sports collections, the Octopus is naturally issued a range of different versions and finishes.

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HUBLOT King Power Diver 4000m TITANIUM 48mm (spec.)



CASE King Power 48mm Diameter in Satin-finished and Microblasted Titanium

CRYSTAL Sapphire with Anti-reflective Treatment

BEZEL LUG Black Composite Resin

LATERAL Inserts in Black Composite Resin

CASE-BACK Satin-finished and Microblasted Titanium

CROWN Titanium with Black Rubber Insert

SCREWS Titanium Black PVD

WATER-RES. 4000 m or 400 ATM

BEZEL Satin-finished and Microblasted Titanium with 6 black PVD Titanium H-shaped Screws

DIAL & HANDS Black Dial / Satin-finished Steel Appliques with Green Luminescent / Satin-finished Rhodium Plated Hands and microblasted with Green Luminescent



MOVEMENT HUB1401 Mechanical with Automatic winding [180 Components]

JEWELS 23

BRIDGES Satin-finished, beveled & polished

DATE Rectangular Window at 3 o'clock

OSCILLATING WEIGHT Tungsten Carbide with Black PVD / Dimpled Surface Barillet

MAIN PLATE Sand-blasted & Rhodium-plated

BARREL With Reinforced Spring

ESCAPEMENT Glucydur Hairspring

POWER-RESERVE 42 hours

STRAP Black Rubber Strap with Green HUBLOT logo

CLASP Titanium buckle

REF. 731.Nx.1190.Rx TITANIUM

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VintageVDB Combo SPECIAL

By TLex The VDB Combo Special: Titanium construction, measuring 44mm housing a vintage Rolex Cal 1560 and changeable bezel with DUALTIME Function. Another hot watch from VDB . . .












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Thursday, April 7, 2011

DELMA Santiago BlueShark 3000m (new)

By TLex For me the DELMA Santigo BlueShark 3000m was probably one of the most unexpected finds of the Basel watch fair this year. Not only was it a pleasant surprise to see Delma making a truly noteworthy diver (until recently the Santiago line consisted only of sub-clones), but this was also a watch that with its 3000m water-resistance is now ranked as one of the deepest divers on the planet. It sits alongside only 5 other 3000m divers models with just 7 further models that actually have a higher depth rating, and it will be tested! Something rather special and really quite cool for a company such as DELMA!

From my personal experience of the BlueShark (brief that it was), the watch felt really solid. Its 316L stainless case had much weight to it, its arched case, which was fitted with a lateral decompression valve, which in some ways could be likened to a Rolex DEEP SEA wasn't the star of the show, that honor would have to go to the BlueShark's black textured dial and striking retro handset that Delma had taken from a previous model of theirs that was in existence in the 1980s. Other remarkable features of the watch included a rugged ergonomic divers bezel with enlarged notches to allow for better grip even when wearing divers gloves (available in either steel or PVD), a massive divers clasp of the type used by CX Swiss Military Watches and the use of hex-screws for the lugs and possibly (I forget) the links on the bracelet.

The BlueShark comes presented in a solid wooden box, is supplied with a rubber divers strap and a specialized tool for strap changes. Price is 1'800CHF. (live image)



SANTIAGO BlueShark Collection [Ref.54701.582.6.034]

CASE Stainless steel with steel or Black PVD bezel, sapphire crystal, Helium Valve

DIAMETER 47.0mm

CROWN Screw crown

BEZEL Unidirectional turning bezel with Orange Luminous

BRACELET Interchangeable Metal bracelet and rubber strap

MOVEMENT ETA 2824 Automatic

DIALS Black with luminous Indexes

HANDS Minute, hour and second with luminous

WATER-Res. 3000 meters

MSRP 1'840CHF

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HELSON Sharkdiver Titanium

By TLex Now available to order from HELSON; the Sharkdiver Titanium. For further details please use the link at the bottom of the post . . .



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Wednesday, April 6, 2011

St�l�s GENNAKER For Tsunami Relief

By TLex Please see the message below from STOLAS Watch Co. who have made a special edition of their diver, the Gennaker to raise funds for the Red Cross' Tsunami Relief. Further details of the project can found on the Stolas Facebook page.



From STOLAS When you see pictures of helpless victims struggling after a tragic event such as the recent Tsunami it moves the human heart to want to reach out and help. As a watch company we spent hours discussing how we could best be able to provide aid in a way that would encourage others to follow suite. We have decided to do two huge ventures of which we are donating proceeds to the American Red Cross Tsunami relief. The first is a 12 day raffle for the Stolas Gennaker watch. Raffle tickets can purchased for $20 each and an individual can buy as many tickets as they wish.



The second benefit we have put together for Tsunami relief is a limited 10 piece "Tsunami edition" of the Gennaker watch. These watches have a red second hand and a special relief logo on the dial. Two of the ten pieces will be auctioned off with 100% of the proceeds going directly to the Red Cross. The two watches that are being auctioned will also be unique in that they will feature a Swiss ETA 2824 movement with a Sapphire case back. The other eight pieces of the Tsunami edition Gennaker will be for sale on the Stolas website with 50% of the proceeds being donated. Pre-Orders for the remaining eight pieces will begin April 16th at 12pm CST. The price will be $650.



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